1. Snap off all external boards. Be careful not to break any of the smaller ones.

  2. Use a knife/file to scrape off the jagged edges of the PCB joints.

Watch this SMD soldering video (I recommend flux-core solder)

Preparing the PCBs:

  1. Use the supplied pin headers to line up and solder the spacers onto the top of the LED board.

    1. Cut the long leg off the pin header.

    2. Put the pin header through the holes, per the image below.

    3. Flip the boards over, and make sure the holes are lined up.

    4. Solder the pins in, and trim the remaining pins

    5. Pull the plastic headers off and trim them as flush as possible. Add solder if needed.

  2. Solder in the diodes. Check the direction of each, they're all facing downward.

    1. Thru-hole diodes must be soldered on the topside of the board.

    2. SMD diodes must be soldered on the bottom for Choc, either side for MX.

  3. Following the video above, melt a small amount of solder on one pad. Then melt that pad and place the diode. Once it's cooled in position, solder the other pad.

  4. Solder in LEDs and Capacitors

    1. Use the same process as the diodes for the capacitors. Orientation doesn't matter

    2. For the LEDs, solder one corner pad, then solder the other 3. Make sure the corner mark matches the mark on the PCB (example shown below)

  5. Solder the springpins onto the bottom of the switch PCB using the same method.

    1. They should fit within the outline on the board. F1, F2, and F6 for the left, F4, F5, and F3 for the right. Make sure the legs are pushed down all the way, no globs of solder below. Picture shown below.

  6. For OLED, solder the 4 jumpers on the bottom side of the PCB. They are circled in orange below.

Soldering on the controller

  1. For all 3 controllers, the Left side has the USB port facing up. On the right side, the controller is soldered upside-down.

  2. After soldering in your pin headers or sockets, trim the pins on the bottom of the board.

On the bottom side:

For the slave side, do not solder in either pad marked RGB.

  • For the Pro Micro solder the red and green jumper pads.

  • For the Elite-C solder the yellow and green jumper pads.

  • For the Proton-C solder the red pad, and install an extra pin in the purple position.

Final Soldering

  1. For stabilizers, you will need to sand down/cut the legs down to under 1mm thickness. I recommend using a bit of glue/epoxy to hold them in place, as the PCB is 0.6mm thinner than what the clips are designed for.

  2. Trim the pegs and pins as low as possible (<2mm height).

    1. You may want to do this in the PCB or out, whichever is easier for you.

  3. Be careful not to break any of the surface components on the PCB.

  4. Place nuts into cutouts. You may need to push the switchplate back down and/or force the nuts in.

  5. Solder switches into the PCB

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