# Soldering

![](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-M7kb5bvlbEK31umJTpq%2F-M7kbSCF7yPS6RTmzsMf%2FDSC00416-edit.jpg?alt=media\&token=c6b454df-46d0-4efc-9cc9-d8756d8923ea)

## Step 1: Controller

{% hint style="info" %}
 If you are using the ATmega32A, skip step 6.

If you are using the Proton-C, skip **to** step 6.
{% endhint %}

{% hint style="warning" %}
All components **except for R4, R5, and R8** may be soldered on with the Proton-C, for a more complete look. Soldering on the reset switch will be helpful for initial flashing.
{% endhint %}

First, solder on the controller. For the ATmega32A, you can use the optional 40-pin socket, or solder the chip directly to the board. The ATmega32A/Socket is soldered to the lower position pins, with the half-circle mark next to "U1" indicating orientation. The "ATMEGA32A" text should appear upside-down.

## Step 2: Resonator and 22pF Capacitors

![Controller, Crystal Resonator, and 22pF Capacitors](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-M7kb5bvlbEK31umJTpq%2F-M7ke4pI0EQZKkB49ddY%2FDSC00432.jpg?alt=media\&token=acdf6707-7ece-4163-ad76-1ff4c429ae93)

These components are nonpolar. Place the 16mhz crystal resonator into the footprint labeled **Y1**. The two capacitors are placed in the **C1** and **C2** footprints. Solder them from the bottom and trim the legs off.

## Step 3: Switches and Resistors R1, R8

![Pushbutton switches, Resistors R1 and R8](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-M7kb5bvlbEK31umJTpq%2F-M7kePO1ZUOq6UOFxAg4%2FDSC00435.jpg?alt=media\&token=6080ac92-7991-43b3-b7ff-08643def064f)

The two momentary switches are placed at **PB1** and **PB2**. They are directional, the legs should be coming out the sides. The 1.5k resistor is placed in **R8**, and a 5.1k resistor is placed in **R1**. All the resistors are nonpolar. Solder them from the bottom and trim the legs off of the resistors.

## Step 4: Resistors R2-R7

![22Ohm and 5.1kOhm resistors](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-M7kb5bvlbEK31umJTpq%2F-M7kektwtTLnfjIcGZPj%2FDSC00437.jpg?alt=media\&token=debe0d24-6dd1-46cb-b5df-9a28870c7f2c)

The two 22Ohm resistors are placed in **R6** and **R7**. 5.1kOhm resistors are used for **R2**, **R3**, **R4**, and **R5**. Solder and trim the legs.

## Step 5: Zener Diodes and 100nF radial Capacitors

![Zener diodes and 100nF radial capacitors](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-M7kb5bvlbEK31umJTpq%2F-M7kf7lKoDB1i2nHtxwT%2FDSC00438.jpg?alt=media\&token=13f8ebde-34f8-416c-969b-d67dbac50ba4)

The Zener diodes are placed in **ZD1** and **ZD2**. These are polar, and the black mark on the diode must be aligned with the mark on the PCB. Positions C3, C4, C5, and C6 use the 100nF Radial capacitors. Solder and trim the legs.

## Step 6: Proton C

If you are using the Proton-C, you do not need to solder on the following components:

* "Boot" switch
* 16Mhz Crystal Resonator
* DO-35 3.6V Zener diode
* 5.1kOhm Resistors
* 22Ohm Resistors
* 1.5kOhm Resistors
* 22pF Capacitors

The Proton-C does not include pin headers, you may use standard 2.54mm pitch headers or other wire. Solder the controller with the USB-port facing down and to the right, into the top position pins.

{% hint style="danger" %}
R1.2 boards have an issue with the right encoder not being connected to the Proton-C pins. Solder 2 patch wires to the emply ATmega32A holes as shown below.

**R1.3 fixed this issue.**
{% endhint %}

![](https://553213463-files.gitbook.io/~/files/v0/b/gitbook-legacy-files/o/assets%2F-LNtw8XAkDrxt-vLrfjL%2F-MBjNx3A9JcmWJnNtzO2%2F-MBjO5kHsl9H-lZxzB39%2F_DSC1431.JPG?alt=media\&token=ebf79ef0-a258-4271-93e2-e509ea304c21)

## Step 7: USB Port

Choose which USB port you wish to use. If you want to use 2 rotary encoders, you must use one of the center-mount ports (**USB1** for type-C, **USB2** for mini-B). The type-C port is difficult to solder, but can be done a narrow tip soldering iron and patience. Take care to not bridge any of the pins. If the narrow soldering is too difficult, you may use an optional Mini-B connector.

If you don't plan on using the left rotary encoder position, you may solder a USB-C port in the left position labeled **USB3**.

## Step 8: Test the PCB

Proceed to the [flashing page](https://rgbkb.gitbook.io/rgbkb-build-guides/pan/flashing) to connect the PCB to the PC, before you solder in anything else.

## Step 9: Spring-pins

Positions **P1**, **P2**, and **P3** use the spring-pin contacts. I recommend soldering these in from the top. If you want a cleaner look, you can solder from the bottom, but make sure not to get any solder into the moving parts.

## Step 10: Encoders and WS2811's

If you don't plan on using RGB encoders, solder the **SJ1** and **SJ2** jumpers. Otherwise, you must solder the WS2811 into positions **U4** **and** **U2**. Even if you're using just one RGB encoders These components are directional, and the circle mark on the PCB must match the circle mark on the component. Check the image above for the correct orientation.

RGB encoders are soldered with the pins on the top and bottom. Non-RGB encoders are soldered with the pins on the left and right.

The RGB encoder configuration you choose must be configured in the firmware, to ensure the animations are correct.

## Step 11: Diodes

All the diodes are directional. They populate **D1-D62**. Like the zener diodes, the mark on the diode must match the PCB. You can now test the switch positions while plugged into your computer.

## Step 12: LEDs and capacitors

For SMD soldering, I recommend the following process: 

1. Melt a small amount of solder onto one pad.
2. Hold your iron to the solder to re-melt it, and place your SMD component with tweezers.
3. Release the iron and allow the solder to cool, while holding the component in place.
4. Solder the remaining pads on the component.

First, solder in all of the capacitors. For the LEDs, make sure the corner mark on the LED matches the one on the PCB. The LEDs do not follow the same direction across the board. Follow these steps:

1. Row 1: For ergo (12 keys with 1.5u edges), populate **B1-B11**, **A13**, and solder **R1BYPASS1**.
   1. For staggered (13 keys or 2u spacebar), populate **A1-A12**, and **B13**.
2. Row 2: Populate all positions.
3. Row 3: Populate all **A** positions. If you are using ISO enter, use **B12** instead of A12
4. Row 4: For ergo, populate **B1-B11**, **A13**, and solder **R4BYPASS1.**
   1. For staggered, populate **A1-A12**, and **B13**.
5. Row 5: For ergo, populate **B1**, **B2**, **A3-A10**, **B11**, and **A12**.
   1. For staggered, you'll need to figure out which positions fit your layout best. Choose either A or B for each number. A1/B1, A2/B2, and so on for 5,6,7, 11, and 12. There must be only one LED per number.